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Delightful Bavaria and Austria
When one thinks of the Alps, usually Switzerland comes to mind, and yes, the Swiss Alps are spectacular. But don't forget Austria which actually has more square miles of Alps than does its more famous neighbor. (It has also hosted more Winter Olympics than Switzerland). While William Tell perhaps did shoot arrows at apples in the Swiss Alps, we know for certain that Sound Of Music was filmed in Austria, and you'll be able to visit the Von Trapp's castle.
Today in this first installment of Delightful Destinations we are going on a tour through the charming and pristine Bavarian and Austrian Alps. Along the way we'll stop at Garmisch, Innsbruck, Salzburg (where you'll rub elbows with the ghost of Mozart), take a side trip to the Salzkammergut (Lake Country) with its idyllic and bucolic history and scenery, spend a night in picturesque Linz, another in Melk and end our journey in romantic Vienna.
Our journey begins in Munich (Munchen), that most traditional of German cities, and capital of Bavaria. Every trip to Munich begins with an evening at the legendary Hofbrauhaus, a beer hall the likes of which you've never seen. And don't forget to bring your dancing shoes and kick up your heels to the tune of classic Bavarian oompah music.
Munich is, of course, famous for its baroque and renaissance architecture. You won't want to miss the Fraeunkirche (dating to 1468) and the Devil's Footprint in the entrance; Marienplatz (pronounced kind of like "marineplatz"), the old town with its world famous glockenspiel; and Schloss Nymphenburg ,summer residence of King Ludwig I. By the way, you'll quickly learn on this trip that Schloss means castle. You may also want to check the Residenz palace, the Bavarian ruler's home and center of power for over 500 years. On a more modern note, you might take the Sbahn to the Olympic Park, have lunch or dinner at the top of the space needle and enjoy the spectacular views; you'll need reservations.
After a couple nights in Munich we're southward bound to Oberammergau (home of the Passion Play in 2010), and Garmische-Partenkirchen. These are actually "twin towns" that were merged for the 1936 Summer Olympics. Today it is Germany's largest alpine resort, and in Summer hosts hundreds of thousands of outdoor sports enthusiasts and music lovers. This charming area certainly warrants at least a one night stay. From here it is only a short hour drive to Innsbruck, site of two Winter Olympics.
Innsbruck , was established on the Inn River in 1180; surrounded by mountains, you have the choice of viewing the city from above down or from the city up. By the 15th century it had become a political and cultural focal point in the Hapsburg Empire making it attractive for foreign invaders and a center of resistance against Napoleon and his army of Bavarians and French. Today it is the gateway to Austrian Alpine resorts, and played host to the Winter Olympic Games in both 1964 and 1976. In a sense Innsbruck is two places; one a traditional Tyrolean town of lederhosen clad yodelers; and two, the chic "big city" of the Alps with wonderful shops and restaurants and "full bore" nightlife. Two well-known sites are the Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) with its gilded roof tiles; and the Hofburg Helbinghaus, a 15th century Gothic townhouse. Of note also is Ferdiandeum Museum, home to a vast collection of art and artifacts from the Middle Ages to modern times. After a couple nights in Innsbruck we are on our way to Salzburg and the Salzkammergut region (Austrian lake country).
Arriving in Salzburg, on the banks of the green Salzbach River, we can't miss the fortress looming over the city below. One of Europe's most beautiful baroque cities, Salzburg claims as its most famous son, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (don't tell anyone, but he apparently hated the place); not surprisingly his legacy has made the city a world center for the arts, particularly the Salzburg Festival in July and August. Pristinely clean today, bolstered by wealth from the nearby salt mines (as in salz), and the vision of Archbishop Wolf-Dietrich, Salzburg was rebuilt in baroque style in the 16th century. Prior to that, in the Middle Ages, it was a hardworking Roman administrative center. Ridding themselves of Rome, Salzburg grew into one of the jewels of Europe, playing host to nobles and gentry who flocked there to pay homage to the Prince Archbishop rulers. The state rooms in the Residenz provide a visual appreciation of their wealth. You'll also find there the room where Mozart played his first concert for visiting royalty at the "advanced age of six".
Lest you think Salzburg is a city full of "stuffy sixty-somethings", stroll over to the left bank and mingle with the lively university students and partake in the excellent shopping and fine dining. You won't want to miss the Bierstuben, home of the local beer, Steigl, first brewed in the year that Columbus landed in America (even if he didn't actually land here and thought he was in India). The brewery tour is great fun and houses Europe's biggest beer exhibition. After a Steigl or two you can make your way on foot, in this eminently walkable city, to view the magnificent gable-fronted sixteenth century houses, (including Mozart's), the fabulous fountains, and finally the awesome Hohensalzburg Fortress.
The Fortress (Festung) was built in 1077 by Archbishop Gebhard as a symbol of Salzburg's independent feudal status, and protection against marauding barbarians. Reachable by the funicular railway, when you arrive up top you will find, not an austere 11th century castle, but instead a 15th century gilded renaissance palace. Truly spectacular!!!
If it suits your fancy there is also a casino in an opulent 15th century castle, just a short distance from the city centre. After a couple remarkable days in Salzburg we're off to the Salzkammergut region. Our first stop will be Bad Ischl.
Bad Ischl is about an hour drive from Salzburg, located in the heart of Austria's lake region. It is, as you might surmise a spa town (bad means spa), and if you are into spa treatments you won't want to miss the one at the centuries-old Goldener Ochs hotel. The hotel is definitely on my recommended list. The food, by the way, is all locally grown, and I do mean "all".
Bad Ischl, in its 19th century heyday, with its 76 crystal clear lakes, became summer playground for the Austrian-Hungarian nobility. This is where kings and queens vacationed, as well as Brahms (he wrote his lullaby here), U.S. Grant, Mark Twain, plus the likes of Johann Strauss and Franz Lehar. While in Bad Ischl, you won't want to miss visiting the Kaiservilla, still home to Archduke Markus Hapsburg; it is here that you can view the little table where Emperor Franz Josef signed the declaration of war against Serbia on July 28, 1914 to avenge the assassination of Archduke Ferdinand, and triggering the onset of W.W. I. (Let it be noted that the seeds of war had been germinating for many years)
A short 15 mile drive to Ebensee finds you with the opportunity to upgrade your wardrobe to the height of 17th century style, for it is here that you can order your dirndls or lederhosen. Patience is required as your "hosen" won't be ready for pickup until the Spring of 2014. It's worth the wait as they'll last a lifetime; men frequently bequeath them to their grandsons.
Still from your base in Bad Ischl, you are just a short drive to Lake Wolfgang. The paddle steamer Franz Josef I will ferry you to three absolutely charming lakeside villages, or if you prefer your view from above take the Schafbergbahn cog railway on its 4000 foot ascent to the top of the valley. The ancient salt mine and Dachstein Giant Ice Cave are also readily accessible from Lake Wolfgang. Other notable and charming towns in Salzkammergut are Bad Goisern, Hallstatt, Bad Ausee and St. Gilgen. And be sure to click on "read more about" to meet the Von Trapps of Sound of Music.
Leaving the cool clear mountain lakes of the Austrian Alps we have another hour drive to Linz, also known as the Danube city. If you've never sampled Austria's renowned and decadent Linzer Torte, the Hauptplatz (main square) is definitely your next stop. In historic Linz you'll also want to stroll the Danube riverfront, home to the Cultural Mile and the contemporary Brucknerhaus entertainment center.
If you haven't noticed, everything seems to be an hour drive in Austria, and the trip to Melk is no different. There is no Melk without the Benedictine Abbey, perched triumphantly atop its giant rock fortress overlooking the Danube. In times past it was one of Europe's baroque treasures and remains so to this day. And no trip to Melk is complete without a day cruise on the Danube to the Wachau Valley wine country.
Last on our delightful trip, we make our way to Vienna (by the way, just over an hour), cosmopolitan, cultural, tradition laden, and capital of Austria. Vienna is a comfortable and largely hassle-free city, in part because as seat of the Austro-Hungarian empire it was a throbbing city of 3 million+; after W.W. I it was capital of the tiny sausage-shaped country of Austria with a population today of about 2 million. An infrastructure built for 3 million souls becomes quite efficient for 2 million. This unique ambiance is epitomized by the Ringstrasse, the circular road encompassing the city centre. Here you'll find shops, restaurants, bars, coffee houses, the Konzerthaus, hotels and friendly people. Other must-sees are Schonbrunn Palace, the rococo Belvedere Palace, and if inclined toward psychoanalysis, the Freud Museum. Vienna has much to offer.
Interesting to note also, you can experience this delightful part of the world via our pre-planned self -drive tours, guided tours, or by Danube river cruise.
Read more about destinations in delightful Babaria and Austria.
